Wherever a flat piece of fabric has to wrap around a corner or a curve, you need a pleat. The shape of the corner decides which pleat to use, whether the seat is padded the traditional way or with foam. And whatever the pleat, it always faces the way that keeps dust out and shows the least.

Why do corners matter so much in upholstery?

Corners are where covering is most visible and most unforgiving. A clean pleat looks deliberate and professional. A poorly folded one looks exactly like what it is: fabric forced into a shape it was never guided into. The type of pleat, and the way you make it, decides whether the finish looks intentional or improvised.

How do I choose the right pleat?

Look at the shape of the corner first: that’s what decides the type of pleat. The padding doesn’t change the choice: the same corner gets the same pleat on a traditional seat and on a foam seat. The finish you plan, braid, piping or decorative nails, then guides how you make it.

Which way should a pleat face?

That’s my workshop rule for every corner: a pleat is always turned so that dust can’t settle in it, and so that it’s as discreet as possible. A well-placed pleat is one you barely notice.

What are the main types of corners and pleats?

Mitered corner

A clean, precise corner where the fabric meets in a sharp diagonal line. It asks for good control of the tension. See the tutorial: How to Upholster a Mitered Corner

How to cover a Mitered Corner

How to Upholster a Mitered Corner StageCoveringTypeCornerLevelIntermediateDurationAbout 10 minutes per cornerMaterialsUpholstery fabric · Staples or upholstery tacksToolsStaple gun · Upholstery hammer · Scissors Need the right tools? See the staple gun guide, the tacks guide and the basic manual tools. This type of …

Simple pleat on a square corner

A foundational technique: clean, efficient, and the right choice for many square-cornered seats. It works with a braid or a decorative nail finish. See the tutorial: How to Upholster a Simple Pleat on a Square Corner

How to do a simple pleat on a square corner

StageCoveringTypeCorners & pleatsLevelBeginnerDuration10 min (per corner)MaterialsTop fabric · Staples or tacks · Gimp pins 15 mm (⅝ in)ToolsStaple gun or tack hammer · Upholstery scissors · Upholstery pins Tool guides: Staple gun · Tack hammer · Scissors · Upholstery pins The corners are …

V pleat on a drop-in seat

The go-to fold for drop-in seats: the corner is pleated underneath, stays flat so the seat drops back into the frame, and leaves room for the dustcover. Clean, controlled and forgiving for beginners. See the tutorial: How to Fold a Drop-In Seat Corner (V Pleat)

V pleat on a drop in seat

4 steps for a perfect V pleat on a drop in seat chair Step 1: keep the angle well tensioned with 2 staples Step 2: cut behind the staples Step 3: fold one side in the middle Step 4: Fold the last part …

V pleat / tulip pleat with decorative nails

A more refined finish where the pleat itself becomes part of the decoration, finished with one decorative nail or a row of them along the edge. See the tutorial: V pleat (tulip pleat) with decorative nails

How to create a V pleat (tulip pleat) ending with decorative nails

You already have the tutorial to create a V pleat ended with braid, here another option ending with decorative nails. Video tutorial …

Double pleat with braid or piping

A more complex fold for seats finished with braid or piping, so the trim sits cleanly without bulk. See the tutorial: Double pleat with braid or piping

Double pleat with braid or piping

This is how you proceed when you want to do a double pleat (also called tulip pleat) when you will finish with braid or gimp. If you will add decorative nails this is not this exact technique you should use but more this …

Invisible stitching on a square corner

The fabric is closed at the corner by hand, with no visible fixing: a clean, hand-stitched finish that is the hallmark of professional upholstery. See the tutorial: Invisible stitching on a square corner

Invisible stitching on a square angle (seat)

Some parts on a seat should better be handsewn sometimes. It was the case on this little Napoleon-style sofa, on the seat the pleats on the front were too big with this height and fabric. You might already know what invisible stitiching is, …

Wrap-around cut

On some chair styles, the seat fabric doesn’t stop neatly at the wooden frame: it wraps around it, and the corner has to be cut to follow the wood. See the tutorial: How to upholster a seat with a wrap-around cut

How to upholster a seat with a wrap-around cut

On certain chair styles, the fabric on the seat doesn’t stop neatly at the wood frame. Instead, it wraps around the back posts and side rails, picking up where the legs and back uprights would normally be left bare. This is called a …

Pleats on arm and back scrolls

Where an arm or a back ends in a scroll, the fabric has to be pleated around the curve, and the pleats show from the front. Tutorial coming soon.

What are the most common mistakes on corners?

With my students, I see the same two mistakes again and again, and both come from being too careful. First, they don’t trim enough fabric at the corner, afraid of cutting too much, and the extra layers make a lump under the pleat. Second, they don’t dare to pull hard enough: without real tension, no pleat will ever sit flat.

FAQ

Do I need to sew a pleat?

In most cases, no: good tension is enough to hold it. I only sew a pleat when it’s very tall, more than about 8 cm (3⅛ in).

Is the pleat different on a foam seat?

No. The shape of the corner decides the pleat, not the padding, so a foam seat and a traditional seat with the same corner get the same pleat.

Which pleat should a beginner start with?

The V pleat on a drop-in seat and the simple pleat on a square corner are the easiest to start with. The mitered corner and the double pleat come next, once you’re comfortable with tension.

All the step-by-step corner tutorials are part of the Hammer Club, alongside every other covering technique.